Just a quick post. Just checked into my hotel in Saigon. Down here for the about a fortnight for work and am super pumped to be back here. As you may recall my last visit here was ah-mazing.
It’s coming on nine pm, I am down here with a workmate from Boston, and another from Bangkok, and we are about to go hit some late night grilled seafood.
God I love this city. Hearing people speak Vietnamese like me is so damn good.
Over and out.
Oh. And p.s. my Japan photos might be a bit slow to arrive, if ever. I dropped my Macbook the other night whilst sleeping, and the hard drive imploded. I lost everything I ever had. Back up your shit regularly!
So, in order for me to avoid rambling and being concise, I have broken up my Japan trip from last month. Wait. It was two months ago I think. March. Hells I can’t remember. Anyways – I have broken up the adventure into a a few blog posts based on the cities I explored. The first will obviously be – Tokyo. One of the greatest cities I’ve been to.
So, as you may recall from the blog post before I went over, this was the first family holiday of any description my family had put together since I was about 12 years old. So…about fourteen years.
Father and Mother in a Yakitori restaurant. Omotesando, Tokyo
I was meeting my folks in Tokyo Airport and staying at a place we hooked up on Air BnB (whaddup Linh!). It was a really well located in Omotesando, a stones throw away from Harajuku, Shinjuku and Shibuya. All places you most likely would’ve heard of regardless of your familiarity with Tokyo I presume. I don’t really know what to say about Tokyo apart from general statements based on what I felt/thought whilst there.
Mother and me in Shinjuku Gyoen, Tokyo
Listen, I haven’t been to NYC, but I presume that is the only city that can really top Tokyo for me. I’m talking from an exploration point of view basically. I was concerned before I went over that six days might be pushing it for Tokyo. As in – I might get bored and run out things to do. How wrong I was. There were cute shops everywhere. I’ve never seen anywhere where aesthetics are so highly regarded. Not just from a store or restaurant design point of view, but also from a personal appearance perspective. Now I don’t want to harp on too much about clothing and whatnot, but really – it was something else there. If you haven’t been there and appreciate that sort of shit like I do, get over there. It was such a god damn charming place.
Amazingly cute cocktail bar
That is even before I mention the convenience of the subway system, the friendliness of the people, the cleanliness of the city, and the food. My god. The food. This is after all the city with the most accumulated Michelin-stars in the world. To give you an idea of how epic they are, at last count – Tokyo had 331 stars in total, with the next highest city being Kyoto, with 136 (Paris and NYC have 85 each for those interested btw). Now, obviously there is much more to food than just Michelin-stars, but I must say, from my completely limited experience, this dominance in the high-end eating sector must filter down to the smaller restaurants.
Parents digging into some Rameny goodness
Take me back. Please. Take me back to Tokyo.
To small Ramen bars, to moderately priced Sushi bars, to little Izakyas. All were so well thought out, so well serviced, and food was all amazing. OK, I will stop harping on it about this all. But if you haven’t been there, get-your-ass-on-a-plane!
p.s. what I’ve said in this post probably applies to the whole country. Possibly more so for Osaka which was some sort of eating Mecca. But we will get there later.
Well it was bound to happen if I stayed here long enough. In the last week I’ve had to unfortunately pay two bribes, and also fend off a couple of 50 year old aggressive pickpockets whilst I was trying to buy myself an ice cream.
Bribe one This bribe had to do with my taking a ‘wrong’ turn. At an in intersection where I’ve turned about 100 times straight in front of the permanently stationed traffic police booth. He asked for 300,000VND ($15), I said I could do 200,000 – and the deal was done. The alternative was get my motorbike impounded and be hauled down to the station for a shitfight. I don’t have a license here you see.
Bribe two This one had to do with electricity to my house. The other night I came home, and my housemate told me we were without power, and that we were the only ones in the block without it. Probably a bill issue. It was about 11.30pm so we couldn’t do anything. Do you know what it’s like to sleep in disgustingly humid, high-twenty degree heat with no airconditioning or fans? I had to open all my windows and cover my impressive body in insect repellent to ward off the inevitable onslaught. Then I would sleep for a few hours. Wake. Reapply. Sleep. Wake. Reapply. Spare a thought for two of my housemates who don’t actually have any windows. i.e no breeze. Oh, and the kicker? We ran out of bottled water. So we had no drinkable water. Aweeeesome. Anyways, the next morning I called the power company, and it wasn’t a bill issue, but something technical. So they sent a couple of dudes round, and turns out the power cable from my house to the power poles had exploded into flames the night before. Not really surprising to anyone who has seen a Vietnamese power line configuration. Although, in fairness – mine had been treated a little better. You see, to stop the rain shorting the fully-exposed wiring, someone had sheathed that part of the cables in slightly modified empty old bottles of water. Unfortunately the explosion the night before had melted that, so I can’t show you a photo of that. Anyways, upon inspection, the electrician said I needed new cables, but he couldn’t do it right then and there as the spare cabling he had on him was meant for someone else that day……..150,000VND and five minutes later and that spare cabling was now encased in a new water bottle powering our house.
Pickpocketing The first two tales above I can deal with. This one left me feeling homicidal. I was lining up at Kem Trang Tien in the middle of town. Kind of an institution amongst the populace here. Great young rice flavoured ice cream. Anyways at night, it gets chaotic. Really chaotic. You basically have to box out kids and small women to get your order accepted. Thank god I have about a 30kg weight advantage of those people. And of course, here in Vietnam there is no concept of queues. Anyways last night I was standing amongst it, trying to get my order, and this middle-aged man was really stiff-arming me with his fistful of cash, trying to get it to the front. It was really odd and aggressive and after a while, I realised this motherfucker had no interest whatsoever in getting some young rice goodness. I had my messenger bag on me, and ripped it back around. At this point I saw his accomplice was trying to tuck into my bag. She was similarly aged and had her arm covered by a big jacket. They both looked quite well off. They now realized the jig was up, and tried to act casual at this point before eventually meandering away. My only regret is that I didn’t call them out for it then and there. So I am going to go back regularly now. With my messenger bag. And maybe just fill my bag with an open container of fucking acid. It’s my goal to catch these fuckwits out. ‘Scuse the language, but I really don’t have time for pickpockets.
Urgh. Japan post tomorrow.
Pretty busy at work these days hence the lack of a meaningful, entertaining blog post. I can’t seem to shake this extreme drowsiness that overcomes me each day at about 2pm. It might have to do with the fact that I am having a food coma actually. I just end up passing out then and there at my table and wake up with drool all over my face.
Talking about drool. Look what I had for lunch today. Each day our cook makes us a delicious meal and today she whipped up something a bit special. It was Banh Da Tron. Banh Da is basically the name of the noodle. I think it’s a wheat noodle? Alright – I actually have no idea what the noodle is comprised of. But it is from my experience a noodle used exclusively in the north. Anyways the tron basically means ‘mixed’ I am pretty sure. I should probably confirm that. Anyways – we are basically talking noodles with a bunch of fresh veggies, bean sprouts, fried tofu, sauteed beef and crumbed fried fish. There are a few variations of it, but this was the one today. And it was killer. And it was free. As are all my lunches at work. It was followed by free mango for everyone. And then me passing out.
When I’m not at work I am trawling for new friends at the 16-24yo Hanoi super-hotspot – Kem Trang Tien where they serve amazing young rice flavoured ice cream. A must-do when you are in Hanoi. Here is a photo of my mate Nomes in her splendid dress gorging on two at once. Nomnomnom
About to hit the sack here in India. Arrived last night into Delhi airport and missed my pick up, so I had to sit outside for two hours waiting for my driver to return. Needless to say I met all sorts of characters sitting outside Delhi airport trying not to pass out. Quite a place.
Anyways, got to my hotel last night at about one in the morning and had to be up for a full day of workshops at seven. Six hours of sleep are not enough for me. Especially when I spend the day in a windowless conference room with a bunch of scientists discussing pigs, feeds and project planning. By the end of the day, my head felt like exploding.
Lucky then that the hotel we are in, about 30km outside of Delhi is quite damn amazing. Imagine an old Indian fort which has been converted into a bunch of villa-esque blocks, and thats the Manesar Heritage Village Resort.
I spent the early evening having some drinks with my colleagues, and I can now undoubtedly say, that amongst all my friends, I am easily the most well-versed in the Vietnamese smallholder pig industry now. Quite a claim which I am no doubt going to leverage when meeting ladies back in Sydney next year.
Apart from educating me on run-of-the-mill agriculture, my co-workers also had some rather great stories to tell about their work here there and everywhere. Probably the pick of the lot was where a colleague was working in northeast India about a decade ago on pig nutrition, and specifically how smallholders were confronting the growing issue of anorexic pigs in the region. She recounted an encounter she had with a farmer, and when she asked her how they were overcoming it, the Indian woman, in a very nonplussed way, just pulled out a few branches of marijuana and let the researcher do the math.
Anyways, after that cracker of a tale, I will leave you now with a photo I took by the pool earlier tonight.
Laters suckers
In the morning I am off to Delhi for a work trip for a week or so. Sounds exotic, but I will definitely just be pent up in the hotel just outside of Delhi all week, attending a conference, eating three meals a day in the hotel, and yeah, not really getting to see Delhi at all. Oh well, at least it gives me a chance to clock up some more Thai Airways Frequent Flyer points.
It might also provide me with an opportunity to write up a couple of blog posts about my recent trip to Japan which I know you are all dying to hear about.
I would’ve got around to it earlier, but since arriving back on Tuesday, I’ve been rather damn busy with work actually. Which is definitely a good thing, and a nice change as strange as that might sound.
The highlight of the week probably would’ve been Wednesday morning, when I was touring 40degree pig pens and slaughterhouses with a group of scientists. Christ. I am getting annihilated by mosquitoes right now. I just killed three on me. Anyways – yeah, quite an enjoyable field trip despite being soaked head to toe in sweat (the Hanoi summer has definitely arrived), and having to be in close proximity to pigs, which are seriously vile creatures.
Thank god they taste so damn good.
Anyways, short post again tonight as I need to get some sleep so I have enough energy to gorge on Bangkok street food during my layover tomorrow afternoon.
Photos!
So. Here I am. In my room in Osaka with my parents passed out on the beds next to me. I’m kind of drunk because I went out with a girl friends parents who live here and went to the best Izakaya and Sushi restaurant I’ve ever been to. I knocked off a few Japanese draught beers, which are the creamiest, best tap beers ever, and some top grade, ah-mazing Sake..
My Japan trip concludes in a couple of days. Tomorrow is my last day here, so I am planning on hitting Horishima and visiting the A-Bomb museum, and then making it back to Osaka to visit the Tutankhamun exhibition which is on display here in Osaka for a limited time.
So I just wanted to write to express my absolute adoration for this country. The food is without a doubt – something else. The clothes scene is like nothing I’ve ever seen, and like nothing I will ever see. The intricacy of design they put into clothing and interior designs is seriously unparallelled. You really have to make it over here to appreciate the unique culture of Japan.
To finish this drunken post, I’ll post a few choice images. Enjoy!
Port Stephens. Or was it Nelsons Bay? Either way – somewhere on the New South Wales central coast I think.
That was the destination for the last family holiday I was involved in. I think the year was….1998 or so. So it’s definitely been a while between drinks for the family. That all changes tomorrow night when I land at Narita airport in Tokyo to meet up with the two highlighted heads in the image below.
Needless to say, I am giddy with excitement. Obviously because I get to see my folks. But also because Japan has long been one of my top destinations. The food. The culture. The shopping. The people. All of it!
My only concern is that I know this trip is going to hurt me incredibly severely financially, but it’s going to be without a doubt – my favourite travel destination. So self-control is definitely going out the window.
Stand by for tales of how I contracted mercury poisoning from consuming inhumane amounts of otoro. Boom!
Note: Tofu isn’t actually coming. He is just so adorable so he got spared from the Gaussian Blur. Look at him! Look how cute he is!
I remember on days gone by, I used to get a great kick out of the fact that the friend I’d travel with would get absolutely ravaged by mosquitoes every time we entered the tropics. They would make a point of bathing in repellent hourly to try and hold off the bites, whilst I sat aside laughing at them and taunting them with my unappealing blood which rendered me immune.
Wellllll. Karma be a bitch.
You see, Hanoian mosquitoes seemingly don’t give a shit about blood types. I’ve quickly learnt post-winter, that if I go to sleep with a window open, and haven’t literally lathered myself in repellent, I actually struggle to stay asleep as I am covered in bites within half an hour of passing out. Take now for instance, where I just woke up after an hour of sleep with about 20 bites on my shoulders from those filthy bloodsuckers.
Just you wait mosquitoes. I am going to go out in the morning and fill my room with those bug zapping lamps and sleep in a constant soothing fluorescent glow for the rest of summer.
Checkmate you assholes.
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